Forodhani Gardens

The first time I came to Zanzibar my friends kept mentioning Forodhani Gardens; but it took me about two months to figure out that they were referring to the grassy dirt lot across from the House of Wonders (picture above is from 2007). Sure there were a few trees and a cement gazebo in the middle, but it just didn't seem very garden-like. Then, two years ago when Patience and I visited, we wanted to head to Forodhani to get some of the famous street food the vendors sell there at night. But it was boarded up! Sheet metal surrounded the entire 1/2 acre or so of the only seafront in Zanzibar Town. Turns out the Aga Khan Development Network decided they didn't like the grassy field very much either and decided to do an upgrade. (Sidenote: the Aga Khan is the spiritual head of a Shia Muslim organization that graduated from Harvard, wears a three-piece suit and whose organizations own the nicest hotels in East Africa). Well, after a few years of construction, here's what they came up with.

Lawns, planters, new Gazebo...

Street lamps, new tree plantings.... (this is facing the House of Wonders)

Pavement, a new Seawall

Benches, trash bins (that's Patience)

And, the food vendors have returned....

Here's a closer look. That's not just chicken - there's lobster on some of those skewers.

After dinner, a desert of nutella and banana or mango wrapped in an egg pastry.

Patience displays the food

I eat it; mmm, a little hot (she got one too).

They also put in a well-equipped playground for the kids. The parents have to pay about $2 per kid to get in, but inside are bikes and push cars that they can take around a mini-track, swings, slides, jungle gym, and babysitters (I mean safety attendants). Honestly, its the nicest city park I've been to ever, except that they don't let you sit on the grass. Nothing's perfect.